What have you done to your bike today....

chas

Legendary Knight
Got out of the scratcher a bit early to take the front wheel out for a new boot (pissing down yesterday evening) and tried to whip the discs off too so I could put the fresh set on this evening.
There's always 'one' fixing, eh. I'm not going to struggle with it, the bike shop can likely get it out with an air wrench but the socket won't look pretty so I've ordered a titanium set and hope they'll arrive by the weekend so I can reassemble.
 

Sarky B’stard

Legendary Knight
And to bring the soothing balm of schadenfreude to our chums with sore wallets (I'm looking at @Foxy ) I've mentally totted up the discs, tyre, pads and now disc bolts and it's just shy of 400 quid.
You'll find me in a darkened room quietly sobbing lads.
I am sure your extensive library of wildlife journals and sporting goods catalogues in that darkened room dimly lit with a banker's lamp will assuage your financial grief.
 

Big Sandy

Legendary Knight
I have stripped my old master cylinder, had to cut it to get that blasted circlip out to release the operating arm. The bore of mine was well fooked, so don't feel so bad for slicing open a part. I still think these could be repaired with a stainless sleeve, if you had the right tooling.

I decided to strip the one Marty kindly gave me seeing as I had a seal kit ready to go. Stripped, cleaned, checked the holes for feed and return were clear, and then new o ring, plus circlip on the feed side, new seals, spring, and piston in the bore, plus circlip. I fitted my operating arm seeing as I had it cleaned and ready to go. Changed the fixing from spring clip on the clevis to a drilled hole and an R pin. Fitted new boot and filled said boot with red rubber grease to save the inside corroding due to mixed metals. I always pack the boots on brake cylinders with red rubber grease, it makes them live longer.

Differences between my original master and the 'new' one...? Feed pipe facing the opposite way, which was the main reason for the strip and reseal, as there was no moving it. The only other difference was the old one had straight drilled 8mm fitting holes, and the new was threaded, and smaller, so had to drill them out. And of course, different length operating arm.

Now fitted, bled through (lot easier than last time) and seems to be working. Brake applying and then coming off again as it should. Next is to refit the bodywork and test it on the road. Today it are mostly pissing down, so it can wait til it stops.

So, result! Thanks to @MartytheMartian 😊 Top man!
 
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BAD LUCK DUCK

Forum Duck
A
And to bring the soothing balm of schadenfreude to our chums with sore wallets (I'm looking at @Foxy ) I've mentally totted up the discs, tyre, pads and now disc bolts and it's just shy of 400 quid.
You'll find me in a darkened room quietly sobbing lads.
Apparently nowadays real men cry...
You cry your eyes out you little pansy...😭😭😭😭😭

We're there for you mate you big girls blouse 😉🤣🤣🤣🦆
 

BAD LUCK DUCK

Forum Duck
And to bring the soothing balm of schadenfreude to our chums with sore wallets (I'm looking at @Foxy ) I've mentally totted up the discs, tyre, pads and now disc bolts and it's just shy of 400 quid.
You'll find me in a darkened room quietly sobbing lads.
In all honesty I feel your pain...
After spending £250 on new tyres for the bike I've spent another £150 on parts and a special tool for the currently non running Duckmobile...
We can cry together in a pansy big girls blouse tight git Scots man kinda way...
No man hugs though..
I gotta draw the line somewhere 😉🤯🤯🤯🦆
 

BAD LUCK DUCK

Forum Duck
I have stripped my old master cylinder, had to cut it to get that blasted circlip out to release the operating arm. The bore of mine was well fooked, so don't feel so bad for slicing open a part. I still think these could be repaired with a stainless sleeve, if you had the right tooling.

I decided to strip the one Marty kindly gave me seeing as I had a seal kit ready to go. Stripped, cleaned, checked the holes for feed and return were clear, and then new o ring, plus circlip on the feed side, new seals, spring, and piston in the bore, plus circlip. I fitted my operating arm seeing as I had it cleaned and ready to go. Changed the fixing from spring clip on the clevis to a drilled hole and an R pin. Fitted new boot and filled said boot with red rubber grease to save the inside corroding due to mixed metals. I always pack the boots on brake cylinders with red rubber grease, it makes them live longer.

Differences between my original master and the 'new' one...? Feed pipe facing the opposite way, which was the main reason for the strip and reseal, as there was no moving it. The only other difference was the old one had straight drilled 8mm fitting holes, and the new was threaded, and smaller, so had to drill them out. And of course, different length operating arm.

Now fitted, bled through (lot easier than last time) and seems to be working. Brake applying and then coming off again as it should. Next is to refit the bodywork and test it on the road. Today it are mostly pissing down, so it can wait til it stops.

So, result! Thanks to @MartytheMartian 😊 Top man!
Brilliant news...
Hope it's done the trick 👍👍👍🦆
 

MartytheMartian

Legendary Knight
Well today I got a new battery for the Daytona and I can now say that it ain't the battery that was causing her problems :mad::mad:

I then re-mapped her with map settings that tell the ECU to ignore the Lambda sensor and that didn't do the trick either so it ain't the Lambda sensor :mad:

This is starting to get very annoying.

Next thing to look at is the Crank position sensor although it was giving the correct resistance readings. I do have a spare to sub in and see if that works.

After that I can program and install a different ECU and see if that works.

After that lot I am fucked if I know what it could be.
 
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